Story
From Farmlands to Fine Wines
words Heidi HELBIG
PHOTOGRAPHY pete thornton
The verdant rice and bamboo fields of Taiwan may be the homeland of Philip and Kevin Liu, but the Valley floor is definitely their heartland.
The brothers have spent the past decade creating a bespoke winery and cellar door that pays homage to their East Asian roots, while championing the distinctive landscape and lifestyle of the Barossa.
Ubertas Wines at Nuriootpa celebrates the intersection of Asian and Western culture, featuring an inspired Asian fusion menu complemented by signature Barossa wine styles such as Shiraz, Cabernet Sauvignon and Riesling.
The result is an experience like no other in the Barossa, combining unique flavours with warm hospitality.
The brothers’ success comes as no surprise, with Kevin heading up the marketing arm of the business and Philip crafting sustainably-farmed wines, sourced from 100-year-old vines.
Their respective talents and Christian faith create a sense of harmony and balance in their business and in life – something they don’t take for granted.
“We value trust and conversation over everything,” says Kevin. “You have to trust your older brother who makes a good wine, and trust your little brother who sells your wine.
“With these business plans and structures, we see growth in business, and growth in two brothers!”
“When it comes to a quality wine we believe in organic farming. Low-yield viticulture is not producing lots of grapes but we want to be different to other wines as well.”
- KEVIN LIU
The architecturally-designed cellar door on Research Road is bordered by ancient gum trees, native plants and a landscape spilling over with birdsong.
It’s a far cry from their upbringing in a rural Taiwan province, which was twice the size of the Barossa and home to 2.1 million people.
Much of the brothers’ childhood was spent on the family rice and bamboo plantation.
“When it is school holidays we are not going anywhere – we had to help Grandfather’s and Grandmum’s farm,” says Kevin.
“We did enjoy it because back in the old days when there was no technology, no iPad, no iPhone, you just have to be creative.
“There was a different job every day, but very simple tasks; as long as we did not make trouble, that was the goal!”
When the family emigrated to South Australia in 2007, Kevin admits to experiencing “culture shock”, finding it challenging to master the English language and Australian accent.
Undaunted, he spent a year studying English at Flinders University and then marketing, while Philip pursued a master’s degree in oenology at Adelaide University with a special interest in biodynamic farming.
In 2014 they strategically purchased a parcel of vineyard at Nuriootpa, combining clay and sandy soils, and the Ubertas Wines brand was born.
“Timing of course is very important. That’s when we came to this land which is not too big and has all the varieties we like,” says Kevin.
“It was very challenging, especially when there is no power and no water. But it seems worth it because we build a quite unique winery and cellar door that can attract tourists who enjoy Australian natives and also the food and wine here.”
Employing “a light touch” in the vineyard, Philip expertly crafts the Ubertas wines, maturing them for up to three years to create full-bodied wines with a long finish.
“When it comes to a quality wine we believe in organic farming,” says Kevin. “Low-yield viticulture is not producing lots of grapes but we want to be different to other wines as well.
“Not everyone would have the patience to wait this long, but customers appreciate our wine because it’s matured properly and has good tannin structures with a smooth and silky finish.”
The Liu brothers also value hospitality, and nowhere is that more apparent than in their Asian Canteen, which is open Friday to Sunday for lunch.
The menu is a fusion of Asian influences inspired by Kevin’s Malaysian wife, Sherlyn, and Philip’s wife from Hong Kong, Winni.
Entrée offerings include dumplings, spring rolls, pancakes and bao, while delectable main dishes include Taiwanese beef stew and buttermilk chicken.
Kevin says experimenting with Asian flavours, herbs and spices has created unique flavour combinations that are genuine crowd-pleasers.
“You just have to find a good harmony in your menu. We are trying to introduce a healthier menu but at the same time, we want to have deep fried options – you can’t be too healthy but not happy! You have to find a good balance,” he says.
But perhaps most of all, hospitality starts with simple things, like conversation and shared experiences – things he’s found in abundance in the Barossa.
“When you come to a country where you don’t really need to compare friends of families or your neighbours, money doesn’t seem to be the number one thing,” says Kevin.
“Sharing can be a simple thing, like sharing a life experience so we don’t make the same mistake again, or sharing our food.
“Some people come here just for the food, and as long as they have a good time here, that’s what we want to see.”
