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Spring wine reviews by Tyson Stelzer

94 POINTS // $33

The Thief?

Barossa Valley

Shiraz 2021

Tash Mooney has been making delicious Barossa Shiraz forever, and the magnificent 2021 season is a delight in her talented hands. Impeccable, glossy, succulent black fruits of all kinds meet white pepper, intricately supported equally by cool vintage acidity and masterfully orchestrated tannins. Bargain.

94 POINTS // $45

Dutschke

St Jakobi

Shiraz 2020

I love the mood of the now almost half-century old vines of the St Jakobi vineyard and the quiet yet confident manner in which Wayne Dutschke captures them in his signature wine. Dark in colour, aroma and flavour, this is a wonderful amalgamation of spicy black fruits of all kinds and dark chocolate oak, delightfully set off by the bright acidity of Lyndoch.

92 POINTS // $35

Dutschke

GHR

God's Hill Road Neighbours

Shiraz 2020

There’s a wonderful integrity to all of Wayne Dutschke’s wines, and this blend captures the atmosphere of his undulating dirt road in the Barossa’s south. Black plum and blackberry fruit is nicely structured by dark chocolate oak and fine-grained, confident tannins that will only blossom in time.

96 POINTS // $200

Penfolds
Bin 798 RWT
Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020

From parcels chosen primarily for their aromatic qualities and plush texture, the black fruit depth and power of RWT rise to grand heights, declaring the Barossa in layers of spicy dark berries, Satsuma plum and black cherries. Impressive dark chocolate French oak (49% new) sets out a fine tannin profile and elongates a grand finish that will hold it in the cellar for magnificent decades.

96 POINTS // $200

Torbreck
Les Amis
Grenache 2019

The essence of Barossa Grenache, brimming with bountiful red berries of every description amidst red cherry liqueur, laced with dried herbs and lifted with exotic spice. It takes 24 months in 40% new French oak barriques in its stride, lending an undercurrent of high cocoa dark chocolate. Structurally, a masterful work of art, polished and refined, yet brittle and enduring, with fruit and oak tannins melding in a dramatic unison that define a future of proportions like this variety rarely sees.

95 POINTS // $80

Torbreck
Hillside Vineyard
Grenache 2019

There’s an effortless confidence and an integrity to these old vines, rooted into the terroir of Lyndoch since 1949, eloquently captured through gentle and considered winemaking in a 2400L French oak foudre. Signature red berry fruits are laced with potpourri and rose petal, but it’s those fine, silky, seductive tannins that make the ultimate declaration of greatness.

95 POINTS // $100

Penfolds
Bin 150
Marananga Shiraz 2020

The inimitable mood of Marananga contrasts the depth of glossy, ripe dark berry, black cherry and Satsuma plum fruit with all the impact of a firm, fine, intricate tannin undercarriage. American (24% new) and French (23% new) oak rally to lend strong support, making this a vintage for the cellar.

95 POINTS // $40

Teusner
Avatar
Grenache 2021

Smart, minimalist livery is apt for the graceful, elegant beauty of this beguiling season. Magnificent red berry fruits speak Grenache and Belie 10% Shiraz and most of all 40% Mataro. Teusner has woven the three together with considerable talent, setting them off with a fine web of refined tannins that will sustain the long and enticing.

95 POINTS // $65

Teusner
Albert
Shiraz 2019

A warm and dry season in the Barossa has built considerable stature into Kym Teusner’s distinguished Albert. Prune, blackberry and liquorice are underlined confidently by high cocoa dark chocolate and an impressive web of fine-grained tannins. Kym has a knack of upholding fruit integrity and drive in Barossa Shiraz, and this is an exemplar of his skill in uniting longevity with deliciousness.

95 POINTS // $70

Utopos
Grenache
2021

2021 is emerging as the Barossa’s coolest and most elegant season since the legendary 2002, and it’s impossible to miss its graceful mood here. Articulately and sensitively translated by Kym Teusner, this is a breathtaking Barossa Grenache, more vibrant, fragrant and rose petal infused than ever. Finely integrated tannins trace a long and pretty finish.

94 POINTS // $38

Henschke
Henry's Seven
Shiraz 2021

This wonderfully elegant harvest defines a style more red-fruited, fragrant, floral, deeply spicy and downright pretty than might be expected for this blend. Shiraz has slowly edged up over the years, attaining a high point of 77% here, but the impact of Grenache, Mataro and Viognier are more impressive than ever this year. Far and away the finest in 20 years of Henry’s Seven!

94 POINTS // $150

Maverick
Barossa Ridge
Old Vine Shiraz 2020

The highlight of Maverick’s now quite extensive 2020 portfolio, these almost 50 year old vines in Vine Vale have produced a beautifully poised and elegant Shiraz. Vibrant acid line works in concert with a firm, fine tannin backbone to draw out a long and bright finish. Red berry fruits and dark chocolate oak find equilibrium from the outset, but patience promises great things.

94 POINTS // $33

The Thief?
Barossa
Shiraz Cabernet 2021

Raised in the same vineyard and co-fermented, the Shiraz and 20% Cabernet in this blend feel like they belong together. Alongside the straight Shiraz of the same season, the impact of Cabernet here on tension, structure and sheer endurance is dramatic, making for a fantastic bargain for the cellar.

94 POINTS // $40

Penfolds
Bin 51
Eden Valley Riesling 2022

The very first finished 2022 Riesling that I’ve tasted tells the story of a mild season in Eden Valley, with long ripening infusing bountiful flavour and natural acidity. It strikes a wonderful mid-spectrum equilibrium that spans all we love about this region. Mid-palate flesh guarantees immediate appeal, while the 2021 patiently awaits its turn in the cellar! Versatile and irresistible.

93 POINTS // $120

Henschke
Tappa Pass
Shiraz 2019

A small harvest of impressive concentration, depth and vibrant colour. The depth of blackberries infused by old vines in the Barossa and Eden Valleys is impressive, bathed in spice. It concludes earthy and savoury, well framed by fine-grained tannins.

93 POINTS // $70

Utopos
Shiraz
2019

Kym Teusner has succeed in bottling the depth of colour and spicy black fruit richness that characterises 2019 in the Barossa, and yet, crucially, upheld restraint, space and lift. Fine-grained, expansive tannins and well-integrated acidity draw out a finish that will blossom with a few more years in the depths.

93 POINTS // $28

Yalumba
Eden Valley
Viognier 2018

With new clones and new vineyards on board, Yalumba’s Viognier odyssey achieves new heights. The exciting interplay and exacting balance on show here between succulent apricot, spicy ginger, creamy wild ferment, cool Eden crunch and enticing phenolic bite is something to behold.

92 POINTS // $28

Yalumba
Eden Valley
Roussanne 2020

Almost single vineyard Roussanne of character and structure. Fermentation and maturation in older French oak barriques has built texture and coherence, with just the right reductive edge. Ultimately, it’s grapefruit crunch and well-executed phenolic bite that define impressive tension and endurance.

91 POINTS // $35

Henschke
Five Shillings
Shiraz 2021

The old adage of buying the lower-tier wines in the greatest seasons holds strong here. The energy, brightness and lift of this sublime vintage heightens the freshness and fragrant, spicy aromatics of Shiraz, while Mataro (24%) brings its savoury intrigue, paprika feel and fine, earthy tannin assurance.

90 POINTS // $27

Teusner
Riebke
Barossa Valley Shiraz 2020

Ten percent Mataro boosts the colour and lends structural support to a Barossa Shiraz, brimming with sweet, ripe blueberries, satsuma plums, liquorice and milk chocolate. Fine, crunchy tannins temper fruit sweetness on a friendly finish.

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