Story
Growing from grassroots
words Heidi HELBIG
PHOTOGRAPHY john krÜger
Like the big-sky country at Fords she calls home, the land has been the backdrop to the story of Sarah Noack’s life.
In big and small ways, agriculture has always had a tug on Sarah, bringing her back to her roots.
As the fourth child of St Kitts farmers, Rueben and Ruth Noack, the 36-year-old describes her upbringing on a “small, traditional farm” as full of experiences.
“Mum’s family was involved in viticulture and Dad’s was cropping and livestock, but both had farming-based childhoods,” says Sarah.
“Growing up it was very self-sufficient; we had sheep, pigs and cows and Mum was big on preserves and jams, which came from both sides of the family.”
However a career in agriculture was no fait accompli, and graduating from Nuriootpa High School, Sarah’s primary motivation was to step outside of the Barossa.
“When I finished high school, I was excited to head to university and Adelaide, ‘get me out of here’,” she laughs.
“I left, and that was a good chance to get some perspective. I didn’t appreciate it, and I certainly didn’t see it coming full circle.”
With an interest in science and soil, Sarah embarked on a degree in Sustainable Environments and would graduate with honours, leading to a Doctor of Philosophy on a scholarship with the Grain Research and Development Corporation.
But no-one was more surprised than Sarah when she was named the Barossa Vintage Festival’s Barossa Young Ambassador in 2011, following in the footsteps of her relative and inaugural Young Ambassador, Adrian Hoffmann.
While the program at the time leaned towards viticulture and wine, Sarah brought something different to the table.
“I was doing my thesis in soil science with a focus on improving fertiliser management, and I was working in a café called Wild Thyme which had an organic market,” says Sarah.
“While stocking shelves, it hit me how many locally-based producers were choosing organic – at the time Wiech’s had organic noodles, Kalleske’s had organic wines to name a few.
“My Young Ambassador project was about awareness of the choices being made by these businesses. Lots of these producers were super helpful, talking about their motivations and how it was being viewed by consumers.”
Now raising daughters Ella, four, and Maddie, two, Sarah also works part-time as a research agronomist with a focus on sustainable practices.
“A large part of the field research I’m involved with is around improving the productivity and sustainability of farming practices,” she says. “In particular, thinking differently about how we manage paddock variability and farm inputs.”
“When I finished high school, I was excited to head to university and Adelaide, ‘get me out of here’ (she laughs). I left, and that was a good chance to get some perspective. I didn’t appreciate it, and I certainly didn’t see it coming full circle.”
- Sarah Noack
Fifteen years on, Sarah remains a passionate volunteer with the Barossa Young Ambassador committee, imparting “words of wisdom” to ensure the program remains relevant, and “having gratitude for the people you meet along the way”.
“The program still has a focus on regional culture and skills, and I do think that has its uniqueness in a market where there are many leadership programs to choose from,” says Sarah.
“We are so lucky with our new directors Maz (McGann) and Bec (Rebecca Reynolds), who understand where the program fits and are super supportive.
“I’m so happy to bring it back to its grassroots – that’s where we feel we sit a bit more.”
Sarah herself remains keenly interested in history and heritage, a passion that’s reflected in the return-verandah homestead she has renovated with husband Kym Ryan.
Built circa 1920s, it has striking period features including wide timber floorboards and pressed tin ceilings.
“I was always a fan of an older home – we are project people,” says Sarah. “I’ve always been interested in history and wanted to know more about it.
“I heard Marieka (Ashmore) from Those Barossa Girls at Tanunda Soldiers Memorial Hall talking about finding out about the history of her home, and that really put a cracker under me.”
Sarah’s research led her to Barbara White, who previously owned the property.
“A local put me in touch with one of her children and her daughter Annie sent me some beautiful photos of a tennis court and ornate verandah, things we didn’t know about the place,” says Sarah.
Many conversions, successes and mistakes later, Sarah and Kym have created a place their children will love.
“We hope our girls have a great time growing up here, as we did – Kym in Balaklava, and me at St Kitts. I think that’s important to us,” she says.
Happily a stay-at-home mum, Sarah hasn’t lost touch with her upbringing and memories of working alongside her mum and sisters in the kitchen.
“Mum has handed over the Fowlers Vacola,” she laughs.
“We have recently dabbled in some tomato sauce, even though it takes a full day to make 30 bottles of sauce!
“But it’s nice to keep those traditions going and seeing what Those Barossa Girls do to put it in the limelight, otherwise those skills will be lost.”
