97 POINTS // $850
Torbreck
The Forebear
2019
The rise and rise of these old vines in Lyndoch is declared dramatically in their solo debut, in a wine filled with all the exoticism, complexity and character that can only come from such grand old age. Deep layers of spice, supple black fruits of all kinds and layers of liquorice and dark chocolate are bathed in supple, fine-grained tannins. I love the contrast here between juicy fruit and intricately confident structure. A wonderfully polished and captivating Shiraz. A dazzling new star has ascended in the Barossa!
96 POINTS // $50
ORLANDO
Steingarten
Riesling 2022
Another stunning Steingarten that sets a confident and dramatic contrast between the pure lemon and lime citrus tension that sets apart this label and the subtle toasty, spicy and buttery nuances that are beginning to build with bottle development. Brilliant Steingarten with magnificent decades before it!
95 POINTS // $75
Jacob's Creek
Survivor Vines
Barossa Riesling 2022
Planted in 1922, these 100-year-old vines of Jacob’s Creek Block 2 have produced fruit infused with tremendous concentration of kaffir lime and granny smith apple. Their centenary has coincided with a spectacular and cool harvest that has furnished an icy mountain stream of acidity (staggering for the Barossa floor!), carrying a long finish, promising enduring potential in the cellar.
95 POINTS // $58
St Hugo
Barossa
Shiraz 2021
There is a classical harmony and allure to Barossa Shiraz in the cool and late 2021 harvest, but only for those estates that achieved proper ripeness. The Jacob’s Creek red winemaking team have conjured one of their finest expressions of St Hugo Shiraz, centred on a core of blackberries and satsuma plums and confidently structured with firm, fine tannins. Dark chocolate and liquorice spin out of the confluence of high class fruit and distinguished oak.
90 POINTS // $25
Thorn-Clarke Wines
Sandpiper
Eden Valley Riesling 2023
A value for money Riesling that captures the tension and concentration of the Eden Valley in the cool 2023 season. Impressive depth of apple and spice contrast tangy lime and lemon. Breadth and depth make this an early-drinking style.
97 POINTS // $330
Torbreck
RunRig 2021
The depth and power that define RunRig find a new balance, transparency and life in the brilliant 2021 vintage, with the stars aligning in the fanatical attentiveness of Nigel Blieschke in the vineyards and Ian Hongell in the winery. The result is both more complex, deeper and more confident than ever – and yet, at the same time, crucially more lifted, more detailed, more lively and more delicious. I love it’s supple, fine-grained texture, its pristine, crunchy blackberry fruits and the subtle, seamless integration of viognier’s exoticism.
95 POINTS // $200
Penfolds
RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2022
There is a coiled depth to the black fruits, liquorice and high cocoa dark chocolate of Barossa Shiraz, confidently set to a rigid framework of French oak tannin confidence. I love the way the cool nights of 2022 have infused definition and character to the expansive depth that proclaims Barossa! One for the cellar.
95 POINTS // $180
Henschke
Cyril Henschke Eden Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2019
From vines now more than 50 years of age, this is a vintage that captures warm and dry season density of blackcurrant and cassis fruit with lifted cigar box and rose hip. Impressive fruit crunch and persistence are countered with the fine-grained, drying tannin profile of this low-yielding vintage. It displays craftsmanship that will be rewarded in the cellar. A beautiful Cyril.
94 POINTS // $150
Elderton
Command Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021
These 127-year-old vines have produced a bold and powerful result, even in the cool 2021 season. A full two years in new French and American oak puncheons has made for a savoury style that brings a Barossa mettwurst complexity to deep, black fruits, dark chocolate and liquorice. Fine tannins hold a long and full finish.
94 POINTS // $35
Pewsey Vale
1961 Block Riesling 2023
As accurate and precise as ever, these old vines contrast fruit concentration with drive and tension. Crunchy granny smith apple, lime and lemon bask in layers of spice and just the beginnings of honey. Evolving slowly and accurately, it’s set for a gloriously long and compelling life.
94 POINTS // $60
Turkey Flat Vineyards
Sparkling Shiraz No 18
There’s an elegance and restraint here, rare in Barossa sparkling Shiraz, a jubilant celebration of a string of cool vintages. A core of blackberry and black cherry fruit is propelled by a fragrant bouquet of violet florals. I love the control on the palate, striking a delicate balance between acidity, tannin and dosage, without relying heavily on any. The result is at once exciting, relaxed and delicious.
93 POINTS // $40
Yalumba
Vat 11 Dry Grown Barossa Valley Grenache 2023
From a single vineyard of 1965 Marananga vines, this new small batch release from Yalumba captures the fragrant elegance of this cool season in the Barossa. I love the detail of its lifted rose petal perfume, its purity of raspberry and strawberry fruit, and most of all the way its refreshing acidity melds seamlessly with magnificent, fine-grained, mineral tannins that draw out a finish of elegantly graceful persistence. An exciting newcomer to Yalumba’s growing Grenache arsenal.
92 POINTS // $35
Hatch
Eden Valley Flaxman Valley Riesling 2024
I admire the contrast here between gentle exoticism of lily, apple blossom and spice and the cool season energy of lemon and granny smith apple. The result is a single vineyard Riesling that delivers both juicy appeal and focused freshness, making for immediate joy and medium-term promise.
92 POINTS // $25
Turkey Flat Vineyards
Butchers Block Shiraz 2022
Boasting the lift and freshness of 15 per cent whole bunches, Butchers Block confidently meets its brief of a lighter and brighter expression of Barossa Shiraz. I love its pure satsuma plum and blackberry fruits, its tangy acidity and finely textured tannins. It took some years of experimentation and boundary-pushing for the Turkey Flat team to get the style right, and here’s the proof that it was worth it!
92 POINTS // $25
Grant Burge
Vigneron Collection Thorn Riesling 2023
Accurate, fresh and coiled, with a steely line of lemon and lime acidity, crunchy granny smith apple and a hint of pineapple core. It holds lively persistence and refreshing cut, with a long future before it.
91 POINTS // $28
Yalumba
Eden Valley Viognier 2022
The cooler seasons infuse Eden Valley Viognier with crunch and tension, well framed in the creamy texture of French oak fermentation and maturation. The bite of impeccably-handled phenolics melds seamlessly with crunchy acidity, making this an ageworthy style to pair with white protein.
91 POINTS // $28
Corryton Burge
Eden Valley Riesling 2023
There is concentration and complexity to the 2023 vintage, filling this Riesling with layers of spice and apple. The cool lime tension of the Corryton Park vineyard in the Eden Valley completes a finish of energy and focus. It’s ready to drink now and over the next few years.
91 POINTS // $50
Craft vs Science
G.S.T. Red Blend 2021
Crunchy red berry fruits define the bright mood of 2021, with the raspberries and strawberries of Grenache well synergised with the spice of Touriga and the black fruit depth of Shiraz. Bright acidity and fine-grained tannins make for an ageworthy style.
90 POINTS // $38
The Cutting
The Outlier Cinsault Barossa Valley 2023
The back label introduces this as ‘an elegant, light-bodied Cinsault’ and it meets its brief exactly. Treat it like a lunchtime Pinot. Crunchy redcurrants and cranberries are supported by fine tannin grip, set off with tangy, cool season acidity. Certainly an outlier for the Barossa Valley – in all the best ways!
90 POINTS // $30
Barossa Boy
Cheeky Tilly Eden Valley Riesling 2023
This is a Riesling that juxtaposes the tense lemon and lime acidity of a cool season in the Eden Valley with deep concentration and an exotic overlay reminiscent of star fruit, golden kiwi and even suggestions of passionfruit. It will appreciate a few years for its acidity to soften.