99 POINTS // $1000
Henschke
Hill of Grace
Eden Valley Shiraz 2021
After the coolest summer since 2002, Stephen and Prue Henschke consider 2021 a standout vintage of the decade, likening it with mild seasons like ’86, ’02, ’05 and ’15. I love the effortless, understated calm that it projects amidst profound concentration, heightened exoticism and mesmerising line. The exotic five spice signature of this revered site is more characterful than ever. These grand old vines set a texture so supple it’s silky; its impossibly fine tannins at once caressing yet enduring, carrying a finish unrelenting for more than a minute. True Grace in every sense.
97 POINTS // $350
Kaesler
Old Bastard
Shiraz 2021
I love the detail, brightness and lift delivered by the cool 2021 season, and the way it plays in a wine as big and brooding as Old Bastard is captivating indeed! These 1893 vines have delivered black fruit and liquorice definition of impressive concentration, beautifully presented with their signature, supple tannins. High class French oak (50 per cent new) heightens dark chocolate flavours and brings confident grip and enduring stamina to its structural profile. The finest Old Bastard I have tasted!
96 POINTS // $55
Yalumba
The Virgilius
Eden Valley Viognier 2023
Yalumba’s wizardry with Viognier is declared most profoundly in the coolest seasons, of which 2023 is one of the finest since these vines were planted in 1980. I love its cool energy and elegant restraint and yet its confidence in projecting inimitable varietal identity in apricot kernel, ginger and pink grapefruit. Texturally, this is a marvel, at once zesty and vibrant and at the same time mesmerisingly silky, slippery and succulent, concluding with the perfect clip of impeccably polished phenolic tension. Go long on this one.
96 POINTS // $45
Teusner
Avatar
Barossa Valley Grenache Mataro Shiraz 2023
Kym Teusner has been a champion of old vine Barossa Grenache blends since long before they were trendy, Avatar remains a towering benchmark, and 2023 represents one of the finest he has crafted yet. This cool harvest plays to his style of grace and detail, heightening rose petal fragrance and tangy raspberry, morello cherry and wild strawberry fruit. Mineral-fine tannins glide through an effortless finish of graceful persistence.
96 POINTS // $80
Torbreck
The Pict
2021
Benchmark Barossa Mataro of stature and character, with a deep core of concentrated blackberry, black plum and liquorice, intricately framed in a fine yet rigid structure of masterfully scaffolded tannins. I love the compact focus of the outstanding, cool 2021 vintage and the way it contrasts the profound depth of this variety. An exemplar of Barossa Mataro and the finest I have ever tasted!
94 POINTS // $35
OrlandO
Bungalow Lane
Cabernet Sauvignon 2021
The brightness of the great 2021 season gives great texture and finesse to Barossa Cabernet, balancing the depth of deep blackcurrant and cassis fruit. Impressive acid drive supports fine-ground, mineral tannins that draw out a long finish and grand longevity. One of the greatest under this label yet.
93 POINTS // $45
St Hugo
BAROSSA
Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2023
A juicy young Grenache blend that captures the wild strawberries and raspberry jubes of Grenache and deepens it with the satsuma plums of shiraz and the dried herbs and tannin framework of Mourvèdre. It’s at once classy and delicious.
93 POINTS // $27
Turkey Flat Vineyards
Butcher's Block
Shiraz 2023
Butcher’s Block has returned to a more classic expression of Barossa Shiraz, brimming with depth and succulence of black fruits, liquorice and milk chocolate. Fifteen per cent whole bunches enhance its pepper, spice and structure, supporting firm, fine tannins of lingering persistence. Great value Barossa Shiraz of class and appeal.
92 POINTS // $75
Jacob's Creek
Barossa Survivor Vines
Riesling 2023
A great expression of Barossa Riesling from a site than holds its acidity, presenting accurate citrus and pear fruit. It well contrasts the flesh of the Barossa floor with the tension of grapefruit zest and just the right level of bite from very well managed phenolic crunch that highlights its crystalline feel.
96 POINTS // $80
Spinifex
La Maline 2022
A blend of old vine Eden Valley and Moppa Shiraz with a tiny drop of Viognier, this is a benchmark Barossa Shiraz that trumpets reverberating depth of black fruit impact, yet with restraint, poise and endurance. It glances over its shoulder to the medium-bodied, long-ageing styles of the past, while looking to the future in its graceful fragrance and confidence. French oak barriques have been skilfully deployed to enhance firm, fine tannins and draw out a fine, brittle finish.
96 POINTS // $74
Yalumba
The Signature Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2022
I love Kevin Glastonbury’s sensitivity to detail, brightness and finesse, and the cool seasons of the Barossa exemplify his talents. He has meshed almost equal components of Barossa Cabernet and Shiraz seamlessly here, uniting depth of black fruits with heights of violet fragrance, crunchy acidity with strong, fine-grained tannins, and immaculate polish with enduring longevity. Benchmark Signature!
96 POINTS // $100
Glaetzer
Amon-Ra Barossa Valley Shiraz 2022
Amon-Ra never fails to capture the grandeur and magnitude of grand old Ebenezer Shiraz vines of 50 to 130 years of age, yet rarely has it projected the detail, brightness and sheer magnificence that it achieved in the cool, low-yielding 2022 harvest! I love its quintessential blackberry, blueberry and satsuma plum fruit, its dark chocolate new French oak, bright acidity and its signature, velvety Glaetzer tannins.
96 POINTS // $220
Hentley Farm
H-Block Shiraz Cabernet 2022
This single-vineyard blend of two-thirds Shiraz and one-third Cabernet has long been the standout of the impressive line up at Hentley Farm, and the cool, mild 2022 season has delivered one of the finest yet. The plush, black fruits that Shiraz displays so uniquely in Seppeltsfield are seamlessly and confidently honed by the focused structure, crunch and brightness of Cabernet and the dark chocolate presence of carefully deployed new French oak. It’s at once bold and yet accurate, a monumental exemplar of the great Australian blend.
96 POINTS // $220
Penfolds
RWT Bin 798 Barossa Valley Shiraz 2023
A strong vintage for RWT transcends an erratic and challenging growing season, blessed by a late harvest and cool nights. An enticing core of classic Barossa blackberries, blueberries and satsuma plums is backed by the dark chocolate of high-class French oak, setting a firm, fine, perfectly slow-ripened tannin profile, beautifully lifted by cool season acidity. It carries magnificent flow and persistence, making for a long-enduring RWT.
95 POINTS // $40
Mesh
Classic Release Eden Valley Riesling 2017
A small quantity set aside for late release is an exemplar of the glorious endurance of the legendary Mesh. Robert Hill-Smith and Jeffrey Grosset’s mastery with Eden Valley Riesling is on grand display in this mild season. At eight years of age, it wonderfully meshes the vibrant lime, lemon and white pepper of youth with bountiful layers of lemon butter, toast and honey. In energy, purity, concentration and endurance, this is one of the great Meshs, with many more years of glorious potential yet.
95 POINTS // $100
Pepperjack
Single Vineyard Series Barossa Valley Shiraz 2022
Richard Mattner’s mastery has long been apparent at Pepperjack, and it was only a matter of time before he elevated a new flagship into the stratosphere of three-digit pricing, to the tune of just 8000 bottles. Greenock Shiraz forms the core, with a dash of 4.4 per cent Cabernet – Mattner’s best wines have always been a blend of the two. The result unites the deep, dark, brooding hues of glossy Greenock Shiraz with impressively crafted, fine-grained tannins of enduring potential. Black fruits of all kinds meet liquorice and dark chocolate. Bravo!
94 POINTS // $28
Eden Hall
Springton Eden Valley Riesling 2024
From two blocks producing but half their usual yield in this frost season, this is a quintessential Eden Valley Riesling of elegant precision, honed tension and enduring longevity. Classic lime, granny smith apple and even white pepper are directed by a tight line of cool-season acidity and talcum powder minerality that charge a long finish of great potential.
93 POINTS // $33
The Thief?
Barossa Valley Estate Grown Shiraz Cabernet 2022
This is an elegant and crunchy take on the great Australian blend, celebrating the cool 2022 season in the Barossa. The greengage plum and black pepper of Shiraz are tensioned with the capsicum and confident, sinewy tannins of Cabernet. Beautifully framed, persistent and enduring, this is a vintage for the cellar.
92 POINTS // $20
Leo Buring
Eden Valley Riesling Dry 2024
Long a benchmark of readily-available, perpetually-discounted Riesling, the cool 2024 vintage delivers a classic profile of kaffir lime and granny smith apple. At a year of age it’s just started to take on the complexity and intensity of spicy preserved lemon, making it as versatile as it is delicious.
92 POINTS // $60
Z Wine
Franz Cabernet Shiraz 2021
The cool 2021 season flattered both these varieties in the Barossa, infusing brightness and detail in this blend. Just 3332 bottles deliver impressively tangy red cherries and depth of blackberries, liquorice and dark chocolate, beautifully structured with vibrant acidity and enduring tannins.