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Summer wine reviews by Tyson Stelzer

95 POINTS // $65

Yalumba

The Signature

Cabernet Sauvignon Shiraz 2018

There’s a real presence to 2018 in the Barossa, and Signature takes this drought season in its stride. The confident tension and structural framework of Cabernet is the perfect foil for the succulent, glossy, black-fruited generosity of Shiraz. The result is delicious and enduring in equal measure.

95 POINTS // $40

Yalumba

Vine Vale

Grenache 2021

The deep-set spice and dark berry fruit depth of these 1949 vines is presented with magnificent clarity and detail in the delightfully elegant 2021 season, making for one of the finest Vine Vales yet. Finely textured tannins drift effortlessly yet confidently through a finish of undeterred persistence.

94 POINTS // $40

Torbreck

The Steading

2020

Ian Hongell has brought clarity and freshness without in any way diminishing the depth or impact that define Torbreck. Grenache, Shiraz and Mataro (65/20/15%) from 45 sites across the Barossa unite with all the depth and power of old vines (up to 150 years) in a low-yielding season. Spicy dark berry fruits and plum liqueur are beautifully supported by fine-grained tannins, wonderfully resolved and textured by 20 months in large French oak foudres.

98 POINTS // $1000

Penfolds
Grange 2018

The inimitable, sheer power and towering grandeur that is Grange attain incredible depth and breadth in this warm and dry season, toned by a mild autumn. Profound persistence and unrelenting determination characterise a monumental vintage of  confidence, direction and assurance; inimitably Grange and veritably delicious.

96 POINTS // $80

Torbreck
The Gask Eden Valley Shiraz 2020

The Gask has long been one of my favourite Torbrecks, and 2020 is one of the greatest. The elevation of the Eden Valley and the gently guiding hand of Ian Hongell have raised a wonderfully articulate exemplar of Shiraz in all of its impenetrable depth of colour and a burst of peppery, spicy flavour. A vortex of satsuma plum and blackberry fruit swirls in circles of finely textured tannins.

96 POINTS // $79

Yalumba Aged Tawny
21 Years Old

Yalumba’s precious old tawny stocks have manifested in a remarkable trilogy available only through cellar door. The entry blend (if ever you’d call it that) is astonishingly seamless, a savoury style with judiciously measured portions of rancio, fruit, tang and sweetness. Line and length are something else.

95 POINTS // $300

Torbreck RunRig 2019

The child of a hot, low-yielding season, this is a RunRig of power and impact, honed sensitively by Ian Hongell to uphold freshness and character. Layers of black fruits, liquorice straps and spices of all kinds flow into a long finish of black cherry liqueur and satsuma plum conserve. Fine-grained tannins provide impressive framework to a grand finish.

95 POINTS // $45

Turkey Flat Vineyards
Sparkling Shiraz Blend No 16

Impeccable tannin management is the holy grail for sparkling Shiraz, and this is an exemplar. Beautifully crafted, uniting the texture of barrel fermentation with the creaminess of bottle fermentation and lees age. The result is a finesse that calls for but a refreshingly light dosage, leaving the main act to magnificent and refined black fruits and pepper.

94 POINTS // $140

Henschke
The Wheelwright 2017

From a single Eden Valley vineyard planted by Cyril Henschke on Cranes Range Road in 1968, this is a Shiraz abounding in character and personality. A high 500m of elevation draws out its inherently spicy side, given a savoury lilt by the cool 2017 in Chinese five spice, sage and pan juices. A supple palate of fine-grained tannins and well-poised acidity as been impeccably polished, making for immediate approachability.

94 POINTS // $650

Glaetzer
The Eye of Ra
by Ben Glaetzer 2016

Ben Glaetzer was captured by the best fruit he’d ever seen, from specific individual vines up to 110 years of age across a small number of vineyards in Ebenezer in the great 2016 vintage and matured it for 16 months in 100% new French oak hogsheads. The result is a powerful take on Barossa Shiraz, even by Glaetzer standards, confidently supported by a fine-grained tannin structure thanks to Glaetzer’s cold ferment. It holds good length and density.

94 POINTS // $35

Teusner Joshua 2021

Teusner’s beloved unoaked GMS (55/35/10%) captures the strawberry and raspberry purity of Grenache in this cool season. Mataro strategically plays second fiddle, building a fine-grained tannin scaffold that provides confidence and endurance with no need for oak. A touch of the spicy black fruits of Shiraz completes a delicious and compelling blend.

94 POINTS // $24

Turkey Flat Vineyards
Rosé 2022

There’s a gorgeous elegance, wonderfully fragrant lift and cool season spring in the step of this beloved Barossa Rosé. Built around Grenache (54%), the balance is made up by impeccably handled Mataro – you’d never guess it from the refined mouth feel. And all the pink grapefruit, red berries and rose petals that we adore in this beautiful bottle.

94 POINTS // $40

Torbreck
Hillside Vineyard
Shiraz and Roussanne 2020

There’s an impenetrable black fruit and liquorice depth and power to this Lyndoch Shiraz, nicely lifted by 9% Roussanne. Co-fermentation assures integration, while a long spell in a big French oak foudre polishes fine-grained tannins and guides a long finish.

93 POINTS // $430

Henschke
Hill of Roses 2017

This single block of 28 year old vines in the Hill of Grace Vineyard presents a compelling and characterful wine in a cooler guise in the tricky 2017 season. Vibrant acidity propels violet fragrance and layers of signature spice. It will appreciate time for its acid/tannin balance to soften.

93 POINTS // $65

Yalumba
The Tri-Centenary Ancestor Vine
Barossa Grenache 2019

After 249 days on skins and no contact with oak, this is a Grenache of supple, slippery texture that contrasts with tannin bite. Primary, spicy red berry fruits have evolved to a more savoury demeanour of charcuterie accents, holding impressive length and character.

93 POINTS // $30

Teusner
Wark Family
Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021

The effortless purity of the great 2021 harvest brings a wonderful brightness to this Stonewell district Shiraz. Textbook Barossa, brimming with satsuma plums, blackberries, liquorice straps, and dark chocolate, perfectly framed in fine-grained tannins.

93 POINTS // $70

Utopos
Cabernet Sauvignon 2019

From one of the most elevated sites on the Barossa Valley floor, on Roennfeldt Road between Greenock and Marananga, this is a wine that captures the blackberry and cassis intensity of Barossa Cabernet in a hot, low-yielding year, all the while upholding tension and vibrancy of tangy acidity, fine-boned tannins and just the right amount of capsicum and leaf. 10% Shiraz and two years in 40% new French oak barriques finish it perfectly.

93 POINTS // $50

Maverick
Barossa Shiraz 2020

From estate vineyards in Vine Vale and Pewsey Vale, this is a fine-boned Barossa Shiraz of measured, medium-bodied grace that furnishes the space to showcase its sites in mineral tannins that draw out a long finish. Gentle black olive and blackberry fruit is eloquently supported by dark chocolate French oak.

92 POINTS // $60

Penfolds
Bin 138
Barossa Valley Shiraz Grenache Mataro 2020

The sweet berry fruit core of the Barossa is well set against the spicy mood of Grenache. Fine-boned tannins contrast a supple mouth feel. Milk chocolate French oak (12.5% new) plays a confidently supportive role. Nicely balanced, with medium persistence.

92 POINTS // $70

St Hugo
DR3 Daniel Ricciardo
South Australia Shiraz 2020

Extending the St Hugo GI from Coonawarra to Barossa and now undeclared regions in South Australia is a daring ploy, but the result speaks for itself. By stark contrast to its Formula 1 livery, there’s restraint and poise here, with crunchy black fruits and liquorice laced together with fine-grained tannins. There’s plenty under the bonnet for the long-haul.

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