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Summer wine reviews by Tyson Stelzer

95 POINTS // $70

Orlando

Centenary Hill

Shiraz 2016

Centenary Hill is the quintessential southern Barossa Shiraz, and the definition and dynamic poise and freshness upheld here at eight years of age under screw cap are something to behold. Primary black fruits and liquorice are still the theme, intricately framed in high cocoa dark chocolate and set within a fantastic chassis of firm, fine, enduring tannins. One for the long-haul.

95 POINTS // $70

Yalumba

The Tri-Centenary

Barossa Grenache 2022

These old vines have relished the cool 2022 season, giving birth to a Grenache of particular elegance, exceptional harmony and eloquent grace. Pretty red fruits are underscored by rhubarb and rose hip, at once juicy yet focused by intricately structured tannins that carry a long finish. Another great vintage for Tri-Centenary.

93 POINTS // $40

St Hugo

Eden Valley

Riesling 2024

There’s a flesh and intensity here that meet the brief for St Hugo, distingushing the style from the citrus tension of Steingarten Riesling. It nonetheless upholds excellent lemon and grapefruit purity and zesty tension. There’s great complexity of spice and apple, with coiled intensity and drive. Impressive promise for long-term potential.

92 POINTS // $60

Camino

Centenary Vines

Grenache 2023

Planted in 1912 in Lyndoch, these Grenache vines have yielded a dramatic contrast between juicy red fruits of raspberry, wild strawberry and red jube proportions, and the firm structure of confident tannin grip. A portion of whole bunches heightens its exoticism. A bold and dynamic Grenache of serious credentials, with great potential for the medium-term.

96 POINTS // $54

Henschke
Julius Eden Valley Riesling 2024

A mild summer has defined a particularly enduring Julius. The delicacy of its lifted apple blossom fragrance is gorgeous, heralding a palate of classic lime and granny smith apple purity of considerable concentration. Cool season acidity traces a long finish of structured focus and long-term potential.

96 POINTS // $80

Thistledown
Fool on the Hill Grenache 2022

An exciting newcomer for Thistledown, uniting two plots of relatively young bush vines planted by Joel Mattschoss in tough soils at 550 elevation in the Eden Valley, making this one of the highest Grenache vineyards in the country.  In the mild 2022 season, it captures Grenache’s cooler side in a sophisticated style that seamlessly unites varietal distinction with whole bunch exoticism. Pure, crunchy red berry fruit and dried herb and rhubarb complexity culminate in a spectacular fanfare of super-fine, confident tannins that will hold it for the long-haul. Benchmark. Just 1800 bottles.

96 POINTS // $170

Teusner Righteous FG Shiraz 2021

Teusner Righteous is a benchmark of full-throttle Barossa Shiraz at its finest in the coolest seasons, of which 2021 is an exemplar. This single vineyard in Seppeltsfield has risen to the occasion in a celebration of glossy blackberry and liquorice depth, set to a backdrop of high cocoa dark chocolate. Lively acidity and strong yet wonderfully fine-grained tannins carry an enduring finish. Stunning.

95 POINTS // $100

Penfolds
Bin 150 Marananga Shiraz 2022

The supple structure and red fruits depth of Marananga Shiraz are well married to the milk chocolate of French and American oak, given life and lift by the cool nights of the great 2022 harvest. Firm, fine tannins flow through a long and integrated finish. The mood of Marananga loves the brightness of the cool seasons, and this is another of the greats.

95 POINTS // $125

Elderton
Ashmead Single Vineyard Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

I love the accuracy of Cabernet in the Barossa’s cooler seasons and Elderton’s 78-year-old vines in Nuriootpa rose to the occasion in 2022! A crunchy blackcurrant and cassis mood and a lifted air of violets captures the signature of this variety with depth, density and ripeness true to the Barossa floor. Dark chocolate French oak (new puncheons) tucks in confidently, culminating in a grand finish drawn out by finely structured tannins and bright acidity. A triumph for Elderton and a great credit to Jules Ashmead and Brock Harrison.

94 POINTS // $49

Grant Burge
The Holy Trinity Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2021

I love the coiled restraint of the cool 2021 season in the Barossa, blessing The Holy Trinity with lift, brightness and endurance. Dark and red berry fruits of all kinds are beautifully harmonised with finely structured tannins and lingering acid line. Seamless and crafted.

93 POINTS // $28

Torbreck
Cuvée Juveniles 2022

The culmination of multiple vineyards with vines up to 150 years of age, Grenache (45%), Mataro (36%), Carignan (17%) and Counoise (2%) have been married here with the polished mastery of Ian Hongell, making for a seamless and intricately harmonious blend. I love the brightness and detail of the cool 2022 season, making for one of the most stylish Juveniles to date.

93 POINTS // $28

Eden Hall Wines
Springton Riesling 2023

From two blocks in a single vineyard, a fragrant lily blossom bouquet declares the elegance of Springton, heralding impressive purity of granny smith apple and kaffir lime fruit. It exemplifies a season that captures both concentration and enduring tension. Delightful now, and it will age confidently for a decade.

93 POINTS // $39

Gibson
Burkes Hill Eden Valley Riesling 2023

From the rocky Burkes Hill vineyard in the Eden Valley, this is a particularly elegant Riesling for the 2023 harvest. A couple of degrees lower in alcohol than most, it expresses the tension of this grape in a crunchy kaffir lime and lemon profile, set off with good length and energetic acidity that promise medium-term potential.

92 POINTS // $41

Gibson
Duke Grenache 2022

An accurate expression of Barossa Grenache, layered with red cherry, strawberry and blackberry fruits, structured with fine-grained tannins. Lingering herbal and rose hip complexity defines an appealing style.

92 POINTS // $25

Turkey Flat Vineyards
Rosé 2024

Turkey Flat Rosé has been an institution for three decades, and it’s as graceful and elegant as ever. Now 100% Grenache, it captures the subtle strawberry and raspberry mood of the variety, with a hint of rhubarb. A bright, pale salmon hue reinforces its subtlety, while a lick of just 4g/L residual sugar lends polish without sweetness.

92 POINTS // $55

John Duval Wines
Entity Shiraz 2022

A core of Barossa floor is accented with a touch of Eden Valley fruit, enlivened by the cool 2022 season. A spicy black fruit and liquorice core is supported by nicely integrated, high class French oak. The energetic acidity of the season propels finely structured tannins through a long finish that promises a strong future.

91 POINTS // $50

Craft vs Science
Touriga Naçional 2021

Long planted as fortified base, Touriga has great potential for table wines in the Barossa. This is a great expression, with the spicy complexity of the varietal captured with early-picked vibrancy, lifted by the bright tang of the cool 2021 harvest. Lively acidity and fine-grained tannins promise a good life in the cellar.

91 POINTS // $35

Kaesler
Reach for the Sky Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2021

The depth and density that characterise Kaesler are presented with the brightness of the great, cool 2021 season. Wild strawberries meet plum jam, liquorice and dark chocolate. It’s juicy and jubey, well tensioned with finely structured tannins that carry a long finish.

90 POINTS // $27

Sons of Eden
Kennedy Barossa Valley Grenache Shiraz Mourvedre 2022

From vineyards spanning the Barossa Valley floor of 30-90 years of age, Grenache (56%) takes the lead here, with confident support from Shiraz (25%) and Mourvèdre (19%). The result is a supple and rounded Grenache packed with juicy red fruits of all kinds. Twelve months maturation in large oak puncheons has softened its fine tannins, making it ready for immediate enjoyment.

90 POINTS // $30

Barossa Boy
Double Trouble Shiraz Cabernet 2022

A friendly blend of 65% Barossa floor Shiraz and 35% Eden Valley Cabernet, delivering black fruit density with the structural tannins of Cabernet. Fourteen months in American and French oak hogsheads has delivered firm, fine tannin grip and dark chocolate complexity. Its confident framework suggests medium-term possibilities.

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