WINTER 2026 WINE REVIEWS by Tyson Stelzer
96 POINTS // $350
Kaesler
Old Bastard Shiraz
2022
These 1893 vines have never been in finer form than they were in 2021, and this is a mighty fine successor! Black fruit depth is a given for the Barossa, and supple tannin texture comes thanks to these grand old vines, but it’s the detail, lift and brightness presented here that really declare its class.
95 POINTS // $60
Camino
Centenary Vines Grenache
2024
From 1912 Lyndoch vines, intensified with 10 per cent juice bled off for Rosé and lifted with 20 per cent whole bunches, this is a wine that captures the character of Barossa Grenache! Classic red fruit vibrancy is deepened with inimitable old vine spice and laced together with beautifully textured, fine-grained tannins that hold a very long and coherent finish.
92 POINTS // $40
Mecklen
Shiraz
2024
From the family vineyard of the Hickin family at Gomersal (known as Mecklenburg prior to WWI), this is a Shiraz that perfectly encapsulates the mood of this zone of the western Barossa, in a supple profile of milk chocolate and dark berry fruits. Soft, fine tannins are well resolved, thanks to maturation in seasoned oak barrels. This is a showpiece for the chocolatey mood of Barossa Shiraz, in the very best way.
90 POINTS // $25
Pepperjack
Barossa Shiraz
2023
I love the way the cool 2023 harvest has elevated this label in detail and varietal definition, heightening the pepper spice of Shiraz, while sacrificing nothing of the blackberry, blueberry and satsuma plum depth that we love of the Barossa. It’s supple, ready and a guaranteed crowd-pleaser.
99 POINTS // $1,100
Henschke 2022 Hill of Grace Eden Valley Shiraz
I love the detail and purity that are conveyed by the fanatical work of the Henschkes and it’s presented in heightened realism in the wonderfully cool and late 2022 harvest. The Hill of Grace signatures of five spice, pristine black fruits and mesmerisingly silky tannins are set against a captivating backdrop of dark fruits of all kinds, enlivened with wonderfully vibrant acidity. In harmony, flow and eternal persistence, this is benchmark Hill of Grace, with an enduring future spanning half a century.
97 POINTS // $165
Yalumba 2021 The Octavius Barossa Old Vine Shiraz
The rise and refinement of Octavius over the past two decades has been a spectacle to behold and 2021 will go down among the finest yet. The depth of black fruits on display here is mesmerising, yet in no way heavy; ever bright, detailed and confident. A supple tannin assurance reflects the grandeur of vines dating as far back as 1854. The manner in which it carries itself on the finish is what declares its true greatness, with unwavering line and breathtaking length.
95 POINTS // $45
Torbreck 2024 The Steading Blanc
A great vintage for The Steading Blanc, leading out with lifted lemon and pear aromatics and continuing with the flesh of apricot and the zest of grapefruit. I love its supple texture and finely-gauged interplay between crystalline phenolic grip and bright acidity. It exemplifies its mandate of freshness and texture – a great exemplar of Ian Hongell’s mastery with white winemaking.
94 POINTS // $71
Hentley Farm 2022 The Beauty Shiraz
From the coolest block on the Hentley Farm Seppeltsfield vineyard, the mild 2022 harvest is lifted by well-gauged presence of three per cent Viognier skins. The result is at once deep and plush in its blackberry and black cherry fruit and at the same time vibrant in its natural acidity and fine-grained, velvety tannins. This makes for a well-composed Beauty that exemplifies its aspiration of elegance and grace.
94 POINTS // $230
Hentley Farm 2023 H-Block Shiraz Cabernet Sauvignon
These vines on the western bank of Greenock Creek clearly relished the mild 2023 season, creating a blend for the ages. It has the confidence to take 22 months in two-thirds new French Oak in its stride, setting a tannin profile to go the distance. Built around the body of Shiraz and the frame of one-third Cabernet, deep black fruits meet olive tapenade complexity.
94 POINTS // $44
Pewsey Vale 2018 The Contours Museum Release Eden Valley Riesling
There is a wonderful progression of evolution on display here that exemplifies the underrated magnificence of Eden Valley Riesling. As its fruit profile has progressed to preserved lemon, pear, fig and the beginnings of tarte tatin, its secondary complexity has risen in layers of spice, patisserie and wild honey. A long, bright lemon/lime finish upholds refreshing poise and promises many more years of potential yet.
93 POINTS // $28
Spinifex Papillon 2023
Such wonderfully refreshing, bright, crunchy joy is rarely seen on the Barossa floor, and the cool 2023 season has elevated this deliciously elegant blend to benchmark levels. The tangy wild strawberries and raspberries of Grenache take the lead, perfectly integrated with the fine tannin grip of cinsault and just a drop of counoise. It’s the quintessential summer red to serve between Rosé and Pinot!
93 POINTS // $36
Ubertas 2021 Wild North Barossa Valley Shiraz Cabernet
A new bargain Barossa blend from a single estate vineyard of 70 plus year-old vines that captures the brightness and detail of the great 2021 harvest. The crunchy blueberry, blackberry and satsuma plum fruit of Shiraz is accented with the blackcurrants of 30 per cent cabernet, nicely resolved with two years in French Oak barriques. It trumps many Barossa reds at two or three times this price! One for the cellar.
92 POINTS // $27
Turkey Flat Vineyards 2023 Butcher's Block Grenache Shiraz Mataro
Now sporting a classy new label, Butcher’s Block has seen some evolution of style over the past decade and 2023 represents a more generous rendition. It captures the depth and succulence of old vine Barossa Grenache, bolstered with the black fruits of Shiraz and the firm, fine tannins of Mataro. Great value, as always!
92 POINTS // $30
Dandelion Vineyards 2023 Menagerie of the Barossa Grenache Shiraz Mataro
From a field blend off Seppeltsfield Road, with all the exotic spice and textural allure of whole bunch fermentation, this is a juicy and fruity blend that captures the friendly appeal of Barossa GSM. Fine tannins and bright acidity complete a finish more distinguished than its price would anticipate.
92 POINTS // $27
Rogers & Rufus 2025 Barossa Valley Grenache Rosé
Rogers & Rufus has long stood out as the palest and most delicate of Grenache Rosés, and 2025 flies the flag magnificently with a refinement more akin to cool-climate Pinot Noir Rosé! It completely transcends an incredibly dry and warm season in the Barossa, instead setting a tangy and bright mood of pink grapefruit, pomegranate, strawberry and red cherry fruit, concluding refreshingly dry and energetic!
91 POINTS // $40
St Hugo 2023 Eden Valley Chardonnay
Blended from the full sweep of the Eden Valley, there’s a tension of cool Chardonnay that leads out here, with accurate peach and nectarine fruit, true to its aspiration. Full barrel fermentation in 85 per cent new French Oak hogsheads and puncheons builds the finish with toasted cashew nut complexity that will appreciate time to integrate.
91 POINTS // $30
Teusner 2022 Independent Barossa Valley Shiraz Mataro
Shiraz and Mataro are everything but independent here, an almost equal blend seamlessly uniting the juicy dark berry fruits and black pastilles of Shiraz with the tight, fine-grained, savoury tannin profile of Mataro. Seasoned French Oak draws out the chocolate nuances of the Barossa. The result is deliciously drinkable and appealing.
91 POINTS // $27
Millon Estate 2025 Eden Valley Pinot Gris
The cool heights of Pewsey Vale at 550m elevation have infused a delicacy and brightness into Pinot Gris, with aromatics upheld through cool fermentation and gentle texture enhanced with inclusion of solids. I admire its accurate, fresh pear flavours, its bright, lemony acidity and its soft and supple mouth feel. An appealing and food-friendly Gris.
90 POINTS // $45
Penfolds 2025 Bin 51 Eden Valley Riesling
A particularly dry season of warm conditions and small yields, which Kym Schroeter describes as a bit too warm for Riesling, though perfect for Chardonnay. In its youth, it carries the power and ripeness of the season in a particularly generous and approachable style of succulent white peach, mandarin, golden delicious apple and lemon drops. Its soft, juicy and succulent style makes for immediate approachability, without the stamina to age.
90 POINTS // $30
Welland 2024 Valley & Valley Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon
Valley & Valley is a blend of the vibrancy of the Eden Valley and the depth of the Barossa Valley, bringing together Cabernet of cassis and blackcurrant, framed in medium-grained fruit tannins, enhanced with 20 per cent new French Oak barrels. It finishes with dark chocolate nuances true to the Barossa.