Winter wine reviews by Tyson Stelzer

96 POINTS // $75

Teusner

Kavalier

Barossa Cabernet Sauvignon 2022

An almost equal blend of Barossa and Eden Valleys, cleverly boosted with five per cent Shiraz, this is a Cabernet that exemplifies the varietal distinction possible in the Barossa’s cooler season. I love the way it confidently contrasts grand depth of signature varietal hallmarks of blackcurrant, cassis, cigar box and a hint of menthol with the brightness of cool natural acidity, perfectly harmonised with fine-grained tannins and high-class French oak. Brilliant Barossa Cabernet for the long-haul.

96 POINTS // $120

Jacob's Creek

Johann

Shiraz Cabernet 2018

The grand old Willandra vineyard on the banks of Jacob’s Creek is one of the finest in the Jacob’s Creek Estate and declares its grand depth and confidence here. Impressive presence of blackberry, black plum and dark chocolate fruit is accented with fresh liquorice and nuances of bay. An impressively crafted Shiraz Cabernet blend of fine-grained tannins, supple mouth feel, seamless integration and outstanding length.

96 POINTS // $50

Pepperjack

The Rare Find

Shiraz 2022

The flying exemplar of Pepperjack’s ascent into premium territory, the talented Richard Mattner has put forth some of his finest work here. The depth of colour, aroma and flavour on display far overshoot its price point, rippling with grand waves of liquorice and black fruits of all kinds. Mattner has long been a master of upholding detail and brightness, and the cool 2022 season plays perfectly to his tune. Serve it blind and astonish every label snob in your circle!

93 POINTS // $40

Eden Hall

Reserve

Eden Valley Riesling 2023

Eden Hall’s best block is elevated to Reserve, and 2023 marks the fifth straight year for Block 7. A late vintage following a mild summer produced a style of honed structure and enduring tension, which will appreciate a few more years to tone and soften. A racy core of lime and salted Granny Smith apple projects the laser line of the season, while two years of bottle age has encouraged the slow onset of buttery, spicy, honeyed complexity. Patience

92 POINTS // $45

Penfolds

Bin 51

Eden Valley Riesling 2024

The 2024 vintage delivers a Riesling of riper generosity than the cooler 2021, 2022 and 2023 seasons, accented with the exoticism of blood orange, golden kiwi, even paw paw and mango. Crunchy Granny Smith apple brings structure and tension to an earlier-drinking vintage of medium persistence.

91 POINTS // $25

Neldner Wine CO

Gomersal BlocK

Barossa Valley Shiraz 2023

A bargain, single vineyard, estate Barossa Shiraz that captures the plump mood of Gomersal, the juicy black fruit depth of fully ripe fruit and the dark chocolate and fine-grained tannins of oak. I admire the way the cool 2023 season maintains brightness and definition on the finish, guaranteeing medium-term potential in the cellar.

97 POINTS // $485

Henschke Hill
of Roses Eden Valley Shiraz 2021

The ‘young’ vines of the Hill of Grace vineyard were 32 years old when the 20th release of Hill of Roses was harvested. There’s an effortless calm to this place, enlivened magnificently by the cool 2021 vintage. Dark fruits, deep exotic spice, bright acidity and a super-fine weave of confident tannins unite in seamless harmony rarely seen in such youth. Impeccable line and length confirm one of the greats.

97 POINTS // $850

Torbreck
The Laird 2019

These grand old vines in Marananga have taken the hot and dry 2019 season in their stride, rising to levels of depth and magnitude of dizzying proportions! The black fruit firmness of Marananga defines its personality, all the more profoundly apparent now for the first time in the contrast with the Lyndoch personality of the Forebear. Full ripeness brings aromatic intensity without jamminess, laced with a magnificent flow of polished, finely structured tannins of mineral finesse that hold a finish of ethereal persistence, hovering unchanged for minutes.

96 POINTS // $80

Torbreck
The Gask 2022

I have long loved The Gask, and its refinement and focus under the new regime of Torbreck continues to elevate this Eden Valley Shiraz. I love the interplay here between a focused singularity of black fruit, bright acid drive, brilliantly polished tannins of confident, fine-grained, enduring finesse and outstanding line and length. Ian Hongell would like to have pushed its ripeness a little further, but I reckon he’s got it just right, making this one of the greatest and most enduring Gasks yet.

96 POINTS // $50

Orlando
Steingarten Eden Valley Riesling 2020

Still an excitingly vibrant straw green hue at five years of age, the warm and dry 2020 season sets a compelling contrast between the tension and cut of lime and lemon and the slowly rising complexity of buttered toast, roast almonds, honey and spice. Another five years to complete this transition will set it in a delightful place indeed!

95 POINTS // $60

Elderton
Winifred Eden Valley Grenache 2024

An exciting, brand new release of just 773 bottles from a patch of bush vines at a high 550m elevation in Mengler Hill, formerly the source of Thistledown’s iconic Fool on a Hill. Elderton has created a sensitively crafted, brilliant first attempt that captures all the cool complexity of this lean and rocky site. It basks in rose petals and dried herbs, with a signature core of wild strawberry and raspberry fruit, intricately laced together with a fine weave of tannins.

95 POINTS // $160

Yalumba
The Octavius Old Vine Shiraz 2019

Vines dating from 1854 and now averaging 104 years of age take the dry 2019 season in their stride, projecting a magnificent benchmark that unites density and juicy depth of sweet, warm season Shiraz with intricately honed, enduring structure. The Eden Valley takes the lead here (55 per cent), emphasising its theme of juicy dark fruits and deep-set spice, set to a carefully measured backdrop of high cocoa dark chocolate oak. Super-fine, supple, old-vine tannins carry a long finish.

95 POINTS // $65

Spinifex
Sol Solice 2023

Spinifex’s second release of its flagship Grenache captures a brilliant juxtaposition between the satsuma plum, black cherry and blackberry depth of the Barossa floor and the violet fragrance and lively tang of the cool 2023 season in South Australia’s highest Grenache block, 490m above sea level in the Eden Valley. Pete Schell’s deft touch wraps it in beautifully mineral tannins of confident focus and enduring determination. One of the true greats.

290 POINTS // $95

Hentley Farm
Clos Otto Shiraz 2022

Clos Otto exemplifies the opulent, delicious, plush and supple mood of Seppeltsfield Shiraz, and I love the way this block has risen to the cool and mild 2022 season to deliver all the depth of its classic, glossy richness with an effortless confidence, detail and brightness rarely seen in these parts at such full ripeness. Layers of spice coat a dense core of blackberries, satsuma plums, black cherries, liquorice, plum pudding and dark chocolate, laced together with fine-grained, supple tannins. It’s ready to go.

95 POINTS // $40

St Hugo
Eden Valley Riesling 2023

The Riesling wizards at Jacob’s Creek team have established St Hugo as a particularly honed and enduring standout in their range, and 2023 exemplifies its mood. I love it’s coiled reticence in a vintage characterised by extroverted exoticism. St Hugo is instead focused and structured, with a linear backbone of kaffir lime, lemon and Granny Smith apple, accented with white pepper. Its crystalline acid drive promises a long and grand future.

95 POINTS // $55

Leo Buring
Leonay DWB17 Eden Valley Riesling 2024

Leo Buring sourced its finest Riesling of 2024 from its Woodbury Vineyard in the Eden Valley, and supplemented it with its adjacent Rogers Vineyard. I love the purity and energy it has captured in this cool season, accenting Riesling’s green fruit associations in classic lime and Granny Smith apple, nuanced with cool season associations of fennel and white pepper. With great mid-palate depth and persistence, this is a food-versatile vintage for the medium-term.

94 POINTS // $33

The Thief?
Barossa Valley Estate Grown Shiraz 2022

Tash Mooney has long been a master of preserving the detail and beauty in Barossa Shiraz, and the cool 2022 season has accented her delicate touch. I love the way she has preserved a core of dark blackberry, satsuma plum and black cherry fruit and presented it with a generous overlay of spice and a beautifully refined structure of powder-fine tannins. It’s all class. And a bargain!

92 POINTS // $25

Turkey Flat Vineyards
Butchers Block Grenache Shiraz Mataro 2021

The rule of buying the entry labels in the great vintages holds firm here. My favourite season in the Barossa in decades has delivered Grenache of fragrant, fine-boned elegance, and it’s impeccably supported by beautifully structured Shiraz and Mataro. Crunchy red and black berries glide over a beautifully refined tannin profile. Such class rarely comes at this price.

90 POINTS // $27

Grant Burge
Miamba Shiraz 2021

Impressive depth and definition of tangy, spicy dark berries is well supported by vibrant, cool season acidity and nicely integrated, dark chocolate oak. Fine-grained tannins carry good persistence and medium-term potential.

90 POINTS // $25

Sons of Eden
Freya Riesling 2024

A juicy Riesling of blood orange, mandarin and spicy tropical notes that contrast the crunch of pear and apple and the zest and zing of lime and lemon. Fresh, immediate and versatile with fusion cuisine.

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