Cutting a striking figure in the boardroom of her cellar door, it’s hard to imagine just a few hours earlier Prue Henschke was knee-deep in the vineyard, the place where she is happiest.
“I love being in the vineyard,” says Prue simply. “It’s all about observation, because if you’re wanting to understand something, you have to observe it.”
Prue’s philosophy of living in the land – not on top of it – has helped make Henschke famous the world over, and has influenced her life’s work as a botanist, viticulturist and advocate for vine improvement.
She smiles at the suggestion she was an organic farmer long before it was commercially popular.
“It’s now called regenerative agriculture. When I read what people post on Facebook about what they’re doing, I think ‘so you should – you should have done that years ago’,” she laughs.
“But it’s very good for it to have a name now, because that means it’s easier to pass the idea on.”
She’s referring to a form of biodynamic farming – a way of caring for the land with minimal cultivation, where the created landscape sits in a healthy balance with the natural landscape.
“That goes back to my university days,” explains Prue. “I studied botany and zoology and I’ve always been passionate about the Australian landscape; it’s probably one of the most diverse landscapes in the world.
“Vineyards are perhaps too much of a monoculture; there’s a real lack of diversity.
“Now we’re understanding that the more biodiverse the vineyard, the healthier it is, with better soils and better pest control, which really stems from what we call ecosystem services.”