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Autumn wine reviews by Tyson Stelzer

93 POINTS // $35

St Hugo

Chardonnay

2022

The cool 2022 season has defined a tense and focused Eden Valley Chardonnay that unites crunchy white peach and vibrant lemon/grapefruit with the seamless texture of barrel fermentation. An impeccably assembled wine with a medium-term future make this a standout for the region.

92 POINTS // $35

Kaesler

Reach for the Sky

Grenache Shiraz Mourvèdre 2021

An exciting new range that celebrates the freshness of Barossa young vines! Grenache is in a confident place in the cool 2021 season, well backed by the depth and structure of old vine Shiraz and Mourvèdre. Dark fruits, liquorice and dark chocolate linger long and strong on the finish.

92 POINTS // $60

Kaesler

The Fave

Barossa Valley Grenache 2022

The 92-year-old vines of the Kaesler vineyard rose to the occasion of the cool 2022 season in a beautifully elegant and refined expression of Barossa Grenache. Wild whole bunch fermentation and skin management show a sensitive touch that upholds rose petal fragrance and raspberry fruit purity amidst finely-structured, supple tannins, making this an early-drinking style.

91 POINTS // $60

Kaesler

The Bogan

Shiraz 2021

The cool 2021 season takes Barossa Shiraz back to a more classic style of fine-boned structure that will appreciate a rest in the cellar. The black fruits of these 1899 and 1965 vines are confidently supported by elegant French oak, carrying a finish of lively 2021 acidity.

90 POINTS // $35

Kaesler

Reach for the Sky

Shiraz 2021

Soft and supple Barossa Shiraz in its element for drinking young and fresh. The brightness of the cool 2021 season is neatly suited to this style, nicely framed here without too much reliance on oak or tannin.

96 POINTS // $205

Hentley Farm
H-Block Barossa Valley 2021

A benchmark single vineyard expression of the great Australian blend, basking in the deep, glossy black fruit jubilance of Greenock and beautifully lifted by the vibrant tang and natural acid freshness of the great 2021 vintage. It takes two-thirds new French oak in its stride,  upholding its pristine fruit as the hero from start to long finish. Perfectly polished tannins guarantee a long and exciting future.

95 POINTS // $270

Hentley Farm
Clos Otto Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021

Picked in three separate passes, there is a contrast here between the luscious glossiness of Greenock Shiraz and the energy and bright tanginess of the cool summer of 2021. The result is a compelling evenness and harmony that celebrates a confident framework of enduring, fine-grained tannins. A benchmark Clos Otto with a grand future before it.

94 POINTS // $80

Torbreck
Hillside Vineyard Grenache 2021

A stunning Hillside that captures the freshness of Grenache in all of its red-fruited glory, overlaid with floral lift and spicy complexity accentuated by a touch of whole bunch fermentation in the cool 2021 season, all presented in the glossy density that sets the Torbreck style. The result is at once sweet-fruited and finely textured, thanks to beautifully managed tannins. One of the finest Hillside Grenaches yet.

93 POINTS // $50

Turkey Flat
Sparkling Shiraz Blend No 17

This is a Barossa Shiraz of low dosage, which it holds confidently thanks to carefully-managed, fine-boned tannin structure. The result is a sparkling that looks better closer to red wine service temperature than a typical sparkling chill. Black fruits, liquorice, sarsaparilla and a note of olive tapenade are well presented in a nicely poised style of fine, confident bead.

93 POINTS // $95

Hentley Farm
von Kasper Barossa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon 2021

Signature Barossa Cabernet from the banks of Greenock Creek! All the ripe concentration and density of the Barossa his here in blackcurrant and cassis fruit, well tensioned with the vibrant acidity of the cool 2021 vintage. Dark chocolate French oak rise to the occasion, setting out a finely structured tannin framework that focuses a long and full finish. Medium-term promise.

93 POINTS // $95

Hentley Farm
The Beast Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021

It might not be anticipated that the cool 2021 season would give rise to a great rendition of The Beast, but it is precisely the toning and freshening influence of the natural acidity of this season that enables this wine to carry a full 15 percent alcohol and 60 percent new French oak as effortlessly as it does. And with no lack of the black fruit density that we love of Greenock Creek, with more crunch, spice and character than ever.

92 POINTS // $25

Turkey Flat
Barossa Valley Rosé 2023

Turkey Flat’s beloved Grenache Rosé has taken on another layer of depth of spice, red berry fruit fresh and appeal in 2023. With a pretty medium salmon hue, it tones its juicy mood with gentle acidity and just the right level of fine phenolic crunch on the finish.

92 POINTS // $66

Henschke
Keyneton Euphonium 2020

Vineyards of the Barossa and Eden Valleys embrace the great Australian blend in seamlessly uniting one-third well-structured Cabernet with two-thirds juicy Shiraz in the warm 2020 season, well set off with dark chocolate French and American oak. It holds medium-term potential and will appreciate a few years to integrate.

92 POINTS // $125

Henschke
Tappa Pass Barossa 2021

The cool 2021 season defines a fine-boned and tangy union between nearby vineyards in Tappa Pass in the Eden Valley and Light Pass in the Barossa Valley. Black fruits and dark chocolate French oak are well supported by a tannin/acid interplay that will appreciate another five years to tone.

91 POINTS // $28

Torbreck
Kylo Mataro 2021

Ian Hongell describes Mataro’s characters as earth, spice, blood and meat. From a single vineyard in Ebenezer, this release epitomises the savoury nature of this variety, accurately upheld through 14 months maturation in a 4500L foudre. It’s deep, dark and dense with liquorice and dark chocolate intensity. Firm, fine, dense tannins true to Mataro define a dry finish that will appreciate time to integrate.

91 POINTS // $28

Yalumba
Barossa Bush Vine Grenache 2021

There’s a medium-bodied grace and fine-boned texture infused in this cool vintage in the Barossa. Fragrance, structure and poise unite berry and rhubarb fruits with fine-grained tannins. Well crafted and great value, it’s ready to drink now and will hold its own for a few years yet.

91 POINTS // $70

Hentley Farm
The Old Legend Barossa Valley Grenache 2022

I love the perfume, grace and bright acidity of Grenache in the Barossa’s cooler seasons, and here’s proof that this can be achieved at full ripeness of 14.8% alcohol. It brims with rose petals, raspberries and strawberries, graced with fine-boned tannins and lingering persistence. Give it a little chill to tone that alcohol on the finish.

91 POINTS // $70

Hentley Farm
The Beauty Barossa Valley Shiraz 2021

The opulence of Greenock Creek Shiraz is heightened by the inclusion of three percent Viognier skins and one-third new French oak, a combination that appreciates the freshness of the cool 2021 vintage. Tannins, acidity, fruit and oak find a balance if not a harmony yet, which shall come in time.

91 POINTS // $78

Henschke
Marble Angel Vineyard Barossa Valley 2021

It’s in the cooler seasons on the Barossa floor that Cabernet Sauvignon best encapsulates its varietal distinction, and these 1970s vines in Light Pass have taken the restrained 2021 harvest in their confident stride. Capsicum and red- and blackcurrants carry a crunchy mood in which the flesh of the Barossa meets a firm, fine tannin framework and natural acid tang, well framed in dark chocolate French oak. One for the cellar.

90 POINTS // $50

Henschke
The Rose Grower Eden Valley Nebbiolo 2021

From vines planted in 2003 on an elevated slope overlooking Eden Valley, the cool 2021 season made for a Nebbiolo of bright natural acidity and fine-boned structure more than it is gentle red berry fruits and rose hip. The result is an elegant style for the cellar,